Spring 2025 Banquet

Tradition and Transformation

  • Roddy Martine
  • January 13 2025

Ewen Mackintosh_MD_G&M_Photocredit Elliot Hatherley_Ref24544

Ewen Mackintosh has retired from his role as Managing Director of Gordon & MacPhail, but not before helping the company prepare for a new future.

It’s not always easy to observe tradition while engineering fundamental change. Ewen Mackintosh has managed that difficult task. Retiring as Managing Director of Gordon & MacPhail in April 2024, he did so in the knowledge that he’d helped the business become increasingly self-reliant as a distiller in its own right.

During more than 30 years with the company, Ewen has seen it evolve from a bottler of other people’s products to the owner of Elgin’s Benromach distillery and The Cairn Distillery in Grantown-on-Spey. What’s more, he became the first person outside the Urquhart family, owners of Gordon & MacPhail, to be appointed Managing Director.

It wasn’t always meant to be this way. Ewen studied IT at St Andrews between 1986 and 1990, but quickly became aware that his future would have more to do with shining copper stills than gleaming hi-tech. He says, “I was interested in IT at school, but when it came to getting a job, I realised it wasn’t what I wanted to do. I’d worked with Gordon & MacPhail during my time as a student and an opportunity cropped up at the company when I was job hunting. I thought, ‘Here’s a chance for a change in direction.’ Thirty years later, I’m still here. Just.”

 

Quality standard

That initial post focused on Gordon & MacPhail’s implementation of the quality management standard BS 5750. “We were one of the first whisky companies to do so,” says Ewen. “It was all about documenting your processes and setting standards, backed up with audits.” This turned out to be as beneficial to the new recruit as it was for the company. “I went around various parts of the business, speaking to everyone, getting to know what they did and documenting it all. Among other things, that experience gave me an introduction to product quality.”

At the time, the company’s filling arrangements, cask purchases and bottlings were the domain of the the late Ian Urquhart. Ian’s father, George, was still active in the business, continuing his keen interest in stock and products. However, Ewen became involved in cask selection and product quality. “I learnt a huge amount from both Ian and George,” he says. “I developed an abiding interest in whisky quality, production, distillation, maturation, and so on.”

As well as the responsibility for managing the whisky stocks – both in cask and bottle – he quickly recognised the importance of the relationships with other whisky companies. As a result, he became even more passionate. Ewen explains, “The industry gets hold of you. It’s a fantastic sector to be involved in and very collaborative. You make friends and relationships built on commercial and business interest. But you deal with people who have similar, long-term goals for the category as a whole. In some ways we’re all in it together.”

Managing Director

Progression saw Ewen join the Gordon & MacPhail board in 2010, he was made Chief Operating Officer in 2013 and appointed Managing Director in 2016.

“Gordon & MacPhail is a unique company,” he says. “During our history we’ve worked with other distillery companies as licensed bottlers and evolved into an independent bottler. We are held in high regard and the family has always had a long-term vision. We’ve bottled some exceptional whiskies during my time in the business and still have amazing stocks, with whiskies dating back to the 1940s and products from distilleries that are no longer in operation.”

Despite those strong foundations, security of supply has become the firm’s priority and prompted significant developments. “We are becoming a more ‘traditional’ whisky company having developed Benromach and The Cairn,” notes Ewen.

“The company had been looking for a distillery for many years. In 1993, the opportunity arose to acquire Benromach. Crucially, we had the chance to sit down and consider how we could make it distinctive.”

The choice was to make Benromach reminiscent of the smoky whiskies distilled in Speyside during the 1940s, 50s and 60s. “Above all, this was a great opportunity for us to create a whisky that was ours from field to bottle,” says Ewen.

Looking to the future

Latterly, he oversaw the building and establishment of The Cairn, a new distillery that opened in 2022. “Our future is now focused on what we make,” says Ewen. “And our recent announcement that we’ll stop filling from other people’s distilleries cements that. However, we recognise that the existing Gordon & MacPhail portfolio will be incredibly important for us for many decades to come.

“As the business has evolved, the aim has been to give future generations control of their destiny.

“We’ve been lucky to be at the forefront of the industry for many years. Our challenge is to retain that preeminent position. Throughout my time with the company our focus has been on keeping pace with what’s going on around us.

“When I started, distilleries were being closed and mothballed. There was a lot of consolidation and it felt like everything was tightening. At the moment everything feels like it’s really opening up. We have to make sure we are positioned to make the best of what’s in front of us. As access to fillings reduced, we got Benromach up and running. As new distilleries were established, we created The Cairn and now we have to ensure it has unique aspects to help it stand out in a competitive marketplace.”

Good place

Notably, Ewen believes the industry is in a good place. “I’ve seen a couple of dips over the past 30 years,” he says. “But now there’s a real vibrancy. There are lots of distillery owners with a real passion for their art. We’re on the cusp of something special.”

Despite his optimism, Ewen admits to some reservations. “I hope everyone realises this is a long-term game. You can’t make a quick buck in Scotch Whisky.

“I’ve been involved with the Scotch Whisky Association for many years and I’m a bit of a traditionalist, so I’m keen that we retain what’s made Scotch successful for more than 500 years. As things become more competitive and international whiskies take a different approach, we should let them do what they want to do. Let’s not feel like we need to change everything. If change does come, let’s make sure we do it for the right reason.

“The components are there for everyone to succeed, especially if we have governments that back us.”

In his final few weeks with Gordon & MacPhail, Ewen confesses he has no set plans for retirement. “I’m going to take a few months to enjoy life, play more golf and do some travelling. I’d like to keep some engagement with the industry, and I’ll look to continue my involvement in local business groups. I’m very passionate about Scotland’s rural communities. Here in Elgin, we don’t expect to be served by motorways and trains departing every 15 minutes. However, we do expect an infrastructure that’s fit for purpose – fit to support businesses and economic growth, fit to welcome visitors and tourists to these exceptional destinations. The high streets of our towns and rural communities work hard to be vibrant places to visit, let’s give them the help they need.’’

If those communities need advice on retaining strength while forging a secure future, they could do worse than seek guidance from Gordon & MacPhail’s now former MD.

 

This article first appeared in the summer 2024 issue of The Keeper

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